![]() ![]() Those are as common as rocking horde leavings. Picador did make a larger jig, for drills over 3/4". One can then grind one side of the drill, wind the feed back, rotate the drill, then grind the other side to the same amount all without having to keep flipping the drill over multiple times. One can advance the feed with the cross feed of the grinder instead of the nasty nut on the jig, this gives a repeatability of a tenth of a thou, which is better than the rest of the jig can achieve. This it actually far superior to the pedestal grinder setup. I will admit that when I'm using my Picador jig, It's on the surface grinder rather than on the side of the pedestal grinder. Please see my reply to bernard towers above. Michael Gilligan - Mike, thanks for your post. Guidance, which I linked in this recent thread: The trouble is … they put out stuff like this:Įdit: _ You may be interested to read the current H.S.E. and as for grinding on the side of the wheel is NO NO NO the reason being is that when using the front face the wheel is in compression but on the side you are trying to separate the bond. I have been under the impression for the last 40 plus years that that material is for soft materials and carbides but am ready to be told otherwise. Just came across this thread and am a little confused as you say that you use silicon carbide wheels. If anyone is interested in talking about comparative results then they are welcome to do so.Īs for my setup works perfectly well for me.Īs mentioned earlier, if someone wants to send me some drill bits for interest sake I can sharpen them and send them back. There's a few comparative photos in this thread, the first post of which has a link to a different thread again. Or perhaps send me a drill bit and I will sharpen it and send it back to you for testing? The best way to evidence this is for someone else to grind some bits on their Picador jig and compare the results. P.S just double checked them by eye against the photos and it is indeed photographic distortion. The bits were ground according to the instructions. ![]() Some clever comments here today - Not your eyes- it's photographic distortion - 2D representation of a 3D object. Is it just my eyes or do the sharpened drills have rather long central chisel edges? I tried to keep the original post as simple as possible for those people who want to use the original Picador jig which I found works as described if set up properly. If someone has the time and inclination for modifications etc then they should go for it. Unfortunatley you may need to sign in It links to a PDF which I have but can't insert here Something worth looking at about sharpening using this type of jig. (Grinding marks should be at 90 degrees to the cutting edge for maximum cutting edge life). This method also produces the grinding marks on the drill lip for maximum cutting edge longevity. There is a micrometer adjustment on the diamond. A White recessed wheel from Axminster and a diamond, set-up so as to sweep the entire face. This was my final set-up using my much modified Non-Picador grinding jig. I have not found the need yet to purchase a more 'upmarket' grinder as the Picador restores my drill bits to "as new" condition. ![]() The Picador jig works well an as described especially for what is cost and is especially good if someone is on a budget. I use one of these recessed wheels from Axminster, which does the job nicely and has a bit more thickness, so I'm able to dress the side of the wheel. Personally I do use a Picador jig, along with a Reliance, and a Potts, but since I have a Clarkson grinder, I use that for the actual grinding, rather and a double ended off-hand grinder. Once you have done a few drill bits you gain some experience. Once you have the cutting edges in the five-to-five position is is really very simple. ![]() I found it no problem grinding drills from 3mm to 3/4" as specified by the Picador instructions. The purpose of the post was to keep it simple initially so that the user can gain confidence and experience. Lots of opportunity to refine and modify once someone has the basic setup. ![]()
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